早期一般使用金线，银线，亚麻布，丝绸或尼龙制作，现在花边多为棉线製，虽然亚麻布和丝线仍然是可用的，人造花边可用合成纤维制成。一些现代艺术家用细铜丝或银丝代替线来制作花边。大致分為手織、機器織物這兩種，但依使用的技法不同又可往下細分，而且在現今歐洲仍舊殘留不少因時代、地點而各有特色的圖案與名稱。
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在中國大陸，女同性戀常被稱為百合又或称为“蕾丝边”(英語直譯)或「拉拉」，主要是從台灣「拉子」影響而來。
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現代的中文則多使用引自歐洲的女同性戀者的稱呼（主要是英文），也有當地社區自己創造或者歷史上沿用的隱諱語。
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